Before I become an effing idiot new guy at a Powerstroke forum

Scuttlebutt
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This is a cut and paste off a forum I often frequent.

Common weak links in the motor:

  1. Head bolts. A poor engineering design for connecting the heads to the block frequently results in head bolts that stretch and blown head gaskets. The telltale is coolant being forced out of the degas (coolant reservoir) bottle. Look for white residue on the bottle, underneath the bottle, and on the underside of the engine hood (where the hood rests above the bottle). You’ll also often hear a tea-kettle whistle when under boost (accelerating). The rub? To prevent blown head gaskets, you’ll need to upgrade to head studs. And check the heads for cracks. And check the heads for flatness. If the heads aren’t in specs, head studs are just wasted money. My truck has had new heads (once) and head studs (twice).

  2. Oil coolers. Silicate in the coolant falls out of suspension, is superheated, forms a snot like substance, and clogs the oil cooler. Telltale is a EOT / ECT difference greater than 15*. Also causes coolant puking out of the degas bottle. If they crack, coolant and oil co-mingle and they don’t play well together. The oil cooler isn’t terribly expensive, but the labor to replace it is. I replaced mine as preventative maintenance. A coolant filter will help capture the silicate that will fall out of suspension and help prolong the life of the oil cooler.

  3. FICM (Fuel Injection Control Module). Ford updated the PCM strategies many times over the years the 6.0 was in production, and some of these strategies weren’t tolerated well by the FICM. They’ll fail with little to no warning. A healthy FICM should put out 47-48v under all conditions (KOEO, cranking, running, and after the motor is up to full temp. Low voltage (under 45v) under any one of these conditions indicates a FICM that’s on it’s last leg. I’ve replaced mine twice.

  4. Injectors. Although the 6.0 injectors are less complex than the 7.3 injectors, they’re much more sensitive to poor fuel quality, low fuel pressure, or low voltage (see FICM). Some owners have great luck with them, and others have gone through 17 injectors in 20k miles or less. All “new” injectors from Ford are remans, but they come with a 12 month/12k mile warranty. I replaced 8 injectors at 135k miles (35k on veg oil).

  5. EGR cooler. These are known to crack and allow coolant into places it was never meant to be. A quality EGR delete kit is almost a must have on these trucks.

  6. Up pipes. Also referred to as a Y-pipe, it’s the pipe(s) that comes off of the exhaust manifold and bolt onto the back of the turbo. There are two flex sections that have a tendency to crack, and when they do you have an exhaust leak. Open the hood and have someone watch the back of the motor while you blip the throttle. If you see exhaust coming from behind the motor, either the pipe isn’t connected properly or something is cracked. You’ll also hear something that sounds close to the tea kettle whiste that accompanies blown head gaskets. My flex sections were cracked and I replaced the up pipe.

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Www.Destroked.com. you can bolt in a 12 or 24 valve cummins, directly to that transmission and save yourself alot of pain.

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[QUOTE=Flyer69;143495]The coolant is equally as important in these motors as the oil.
Wrong coolant leads to coolant cavitation. The additives that prevent cavitation also need to be renewed. Or just drain the coolant, back flush, and fill in with the good stuff.[/QUOTE]

That’s also very good advice for marine diesels, especially high speed 4 stroke types, which is why you’ll see different dosing charts for same from the likes of Drew and Unitor. Top off with the best water you can get, even if you have to buy distilled at the grocery store.

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[QUOTE=catherder;143598]That’s also very good advice for marine diesels, especially high speed 4 stroke types, which is why you’ll see different dosing charts for same from the likes of Drew and Unitor. Top off with the best water you can get, even if you have to buy distilled at the grocery store.[/QUOTE]

They say that it is very important to used distilled water when flushing and refilling the cooling system in the Powerstrokes. Also from what I have learned installing a Filter for the jacket water system is one of the first modifications that everyone recommends. Also as was mentioned earlier be sure to use the proper type of cooling system antifreeze / treatment as using the incorrect type can and will lead to some very bad things for the engine.

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Let me try to help save you from a powerstoke forum… and ANYONE who thinks they can bad mouth Bill Hewitt, or ANY of his guys… I will fight, right now, right here…

I have a 6.0L (2006 with 150k in a 250 chassis) and let me say CONGRATS on your buy. I have worked the SHIT outta my truck and done over 6k miles in the past year with a 38’ fifth wheel. Don’t let the inexperienced, or unknowledged, or even the few horror stories (when someone was likely doing something to warrant an explosion) deter you from this great platform. To save you the long history I bought it, drove it for a week, and did the Bill Hewitt checklist to bullet proof it. You don’t need to go this route, BUT… not sure where you are or how your emissions work, but my locations have never been a problem. I’ve had 80k trouble free miles on it since then, minus general maintenance and wear items. I get 20mpg doing the speed limit on the highway, and drop to about 16-17mpg at 5-7mph over. Loaded DEEP with a tri-axle fifth wheel and more dirt bikes than fingers it’s 10mpg…ALL DAY even in the rocky mountains. And once you uncork the exhaust from the turbo back…they sound awesome.

If you have emissions, or are a dendraphilliac, Bulletproofdiesel has good parts and solutions…but dont get the good gentlemen at PSS started on that.

I used powerstoke specialty to send in a company truck (6.4) earlier this year. It cost as much to round trip ship as it did for the first HALF quote i received on the “blown” motor. PSS hooked me up (Dana) and send it home after deleting the dang emissions garbage. (Please don’t drag this post down hill with emissions comments, or set me off on the smoke belching 5.9s burning up more fuel than my new tires cost). Ya you can swap a 5.9 in…or just go buy a truck that has one and save yourself the headache…until you need to put a real transmission behind it. The 6.4 truck was there and back in 2 weeks cross country shipping time included. I begged them to put miles on the truck, beat it, torture it, ANYTHING. They just kept saying…it’s REALLY ok, but I’ll drive it home again tonight. When was the last time you begged a mechanic to spend money, and they told you to save it for an oil change? OR…gave it to the guy with the longest commute and put a couple hundred miles on the clock? Usually it’s around the parking lot, or to Mc’Grease Burger, ideling and under 35mph.

Bobistheoilguy website is where you want to get info on all the “majik” potions you can pour down your various openings. Tech talk, lab analysis, etc. The bottom line…save it for a higher shelf at the liquor store, or double up on the daily. (Except if you like to run your tanks low on fuel during the harshest of winter. The bottom of the tank will sludge fast at highway speeds so use some cold weather juice then) Motorcraft filters, box store hard parts, ford coolant (you’ll waste more time debating the pros and cons than you will driving to the stealership for a few jugs) and diesel from anywhere people normally fill up. I’ve spent more time writing that last paragraph…I could have stopped for coffee and a donut too…or that previously mentioned liquor store.

One more bump for PSS…down the road, whether you do the work yourself, or send it to them…they remember you AND your truck…Especially if you send them lunch one day, or a gift certificate for the local market to buy shop beers.

You can RESET / RELEARN your Torqueshift shift points. And also, new tranny fluid can be miracle cure if it looks tainted. Seen more than a few “replacement candidates” become like new after a flush, and filter swap.

Torqushift Relearn strategy:

  1. Warm the engine and transmission to operating temperature with all accessories off.
  2. Idle engine for one minute with engine warm and all accessories off.
  3. Idle engine for one minute with A/C on.
    Then:
  4. While driving, perform three series of upshifts at light, medium and heavy throttle.
  5. While stopped, perform three sets of gear engagements (N-R, N-D, D-R, R-D) with the brake pedal firmly depressed and waiting three seconds between each engagement.
    Perform these steps once in normal mode and once in tow/haul.

Y pipe leak detections are EASY…haha…crawl under the truck when it’s cold from the drivers side. follow the header pipe up with your hand. if you can write your name up there in black soot…guess what? BTW changing this pipe is a PITA!! but it’s do-able. I cracked mine when reassembling after my bulletproof. The old ones can be fragile, especially if you have a heavy foot for EGT’s.

FICM…$$ but they do burn up at some point so, shrug it off…nothing is forever…

Injectors can be “buzz tested” at the stealership, or by someone with a nice big computer. But without the smoke symptoms, I lean towards FICM…but I’ll only work on my own truck, or help with yours…cuz I’m not really a mechanic…just a garage hack with youtube…

Head gaskets…yea…maybe…but you should be able to inspect this pretty easily. a leaky head can etch the block, so not to be ignored. plenty of guys have done the work without pulling the cab too. bitch, but if you don’t have a 2 post lift, still possible. a lot of those were caused by the supplier of the head bolts to international. they were out of spec under the high work loads. and if some genius flashed in some “hot” tune to impress their redneck boyfriend it WAS going to fail…then they flashed em back, went to the dealer, and cried and cried and cried. not to say there weren’t problems, but most of the problems were EGR related. I know plenty of 6.0 guys that deleted emissions only, and beat the hell out of their trucks…kids, racing, ranch work, plowing, etc.

the 6.0’s aren’t speed machines either, but will definitely do the work. they run higher in the RPMS when working than you might be used to, especially on the 7.3 in my experience…

Good luck with the truck…and if you thought Gcaptain can be a tough neighborhood, go armed to the powerstroke forums…cause you’ll be bombarded with more stupidity than you want to know…i’d say 1:10 good info/worthless info…

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[QUOTE=benjammin;143743]Good luck with the truck…and if you thought Gcaptain can be a tough neighborhood, go armed to the powerstroke forums…cause you’ll be bombarded with more stupidity than you want to know…i’d say 1:10 good info/worthless info…[/QUOTE]

GOD BLESS YOU MAN! You are suddenly my BFF…

btw, bringing the rig home tomorrow. Gonna pour in a couple bottle of Rev-X before I get rolling to hopefully get the plugged injector firing again during the 75miles to get home.

Tell me what you can about the tow/haul function…mine might be stuck in that mode? The indicator is lighted on the dash all the time.

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I’ve never seen it pictures or otherwise…but here’s what I know:

BLINKING tow/haul is trouble from trans temp sensor being overloaded. Aka hot trans, burned fluid. check the stick for nasty smell, burned smell, it’s bad. Note on this…trans temp gauge in these trucks is horrible. Only show overtemp when its too late. If you plan to use the truck at limits this would be the second gauge to add after a pyrometer pre-turbo. Easy install into test port. New fluid in these things does WONDERS. If you’re DIY note you’ll only get to drain about 8 (maybe 9 can’t remember) quarts. Best is to remove pan wipe, and before replacing internal filter I refill with fresh, warm it, run it a few days and dilute it, then dump it, swap both filters and sleep better than the pimply faced tech at the stealership. I’ve honestly taught 2 techs in emergencies on the road. Dumb stuff, but if you want to test their metal ask them if there is a bolt in the rear of the fuel rail. The answer is yes, one for each side, so 2. It’s for regulated return systems…you can’t see it, but if you’ve ever pulled a cab you may have noticed. Btw IF you pull your cab ever, consider this kit only then. Otherwise…fahgetaboutit…

Staying on tow light is likely a short in the wires , or bad switch. I doubt switch. 150k she’s been shifted up and down that column a few times. Where the wires in the lever exit they’ll get soft. Replace/repair, done. Screws for steering column located under side. My guess is if you tilt the wheel to an extreme down, and shift or hit the switch you MAY get some temporary joy. Anyway, while you’re in the column tighten the little screw ( maybe a torx) that does the shift indicator, or pull it, and Loc-tite it back in. They get a little wobbly after a while and mine annoyed me something fierce. Actually borrowed a truck that I couldn’t stand and had to fix that one too!

Feel free to PM anytime with 6.0 q’s. I’ve been in out and around that truck so much I fear buying a new one and having to relearn. So I consider mine half life and MAY retire at 300… But I’ll probably rebuild it whether she needs it or not.

Carli suspension, '11 rear leafs, airbags, and ONeupoffroad ladder bars are on the radar… Then a real stereo…got a kahlenberg dual compressor and 6 gal tank off a yacht that went electric (fools)…and that’s coming up soon too. First MMC update and a trip to the chateau… (;

Oh and PS…for injector life…do the 6.4 banjo bolts,and blue spring mod. There’s a write up if you google. Easy, CHEAP, and your injectors will love you long time…

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I am pleased to report that the F-350 monstrosity completed its delivery voyage tonight at approx 2000 hours after 75 long miles. No incidents or mishaps occurred enroute but without question that the main is in serious need of hospitalization as with a 6000 or so pound trailer and vehicle in tow it was not able to get above 60 on flat ground and bogged down to a crawl on any significant hill. Trans too shows significant shifting problems requiring manual intervention to shift properly. Tow/haul light flashing most of the time but the trans temp gauge not going above the mid point Not sure about turbo boost, but believe it also to be not present. In many respects driving the rig felt much like driving a 6.9l IDI non turbo truck…ie. gutless! We have a sick patient here…

Now to the doctor for diagnosis and hopefully a relatively painless cure. Dr. Benjammin to the ER STAT!

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[QUOTE=c.captain;143828]I am pleased to report that the F-350 monstrosity completed its delivery voyage tonight at approx 2000 hours after 75 long miles. No incidents or mishaps occurred enroute but without question that the main is in serious need of hospitalization as with a 6000 or so pound trailer and vehicle in tow it was not able to get above 60 on flat ground and bogged down to a crawl on any significant hill. Trans too shows significant shifting problems requiring manual intervention to shift properly. Tow/haul light flashing most of the time but the trans temp gauge not going above the mid point Not sure about turbo boost, but believe it also to be not present. In many respects driving the rig felt much like driving a 6.9l IDI non turbo truck…ie. gutless! We have a sick patient here…

Now to the doctor for diagnosis and hopefully a relatively painless cure. Dr. Benjammin to the ER STAT![/QUOTE]
That sounds scary. Since you didn’t mention anything about an apparent misfire, I’m hoping it’s just something minor. As far as the shifting problem, I’ve rebuilt a few auto trans in my day and still don’t know a damn thing about them. Sorry mate, if it ain’t slipping then I don’t have a clue.

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Hey…bottom line…she got ya home even with the trailer! I had a similar trip, but my long trip was 350 miles in the middle of nothing Utah with a ski-boat. It was because of my Y pipe, and not building ANY boost. My friends were not impressed, but I was!

First, and foremost, I don’t think you have an injector problem, otherwise you would have noted that the truck rattles out your teeth at idle.

Anyway, heres some questions:

  1. Are you DIY mechanic? I ask, becuase there might be some computer diagnosis needed for the trans. Does the truck show trouble codes?
  2. There should be a little boost gauge on your tach dial? Was it showing “NO” boost, or “LOW”?
    This could be a number of things. If they had the batteries disconnected, you might need to do a “relearn” for the VariableGeometryTrubo. Basicly disconnect the batteries, turn the headlights “on” and short the + to - for 10minutes. Then turn the lights off, hook it all back up, idle for 5 and drive for 10-15min. Should do the trick. #2 could be a plugged up EGR (see Specialist Hewitt) #3 could be a MAF sensor needs a clean. (intake tube, behind air filter, plug on top of tube) #4 Turbo Charger air cooler hoses. They just get old. [B][U]#5 MAP Sensor hose to intake manifold. Tells the truck how much manifold pressure there is. Hose cracks/fails, and once computer doesn’t know the parameters it shuts the turbo down. Now that I type this and think…start here with this hose. [/U][/B] That could be a $6 trip to the ACE hardware. Mr. Hewitt has a real interesting video on the cleaning of these turbos, but it might be part of his bulletproof series, and i may or may not have been drinking during most of that project. can’t remember haha

3)Trans “mission”. Flashing doesn’t excite me to be honest with you capt. See 1). B/C reading transmission codes on these trucks requires a high end computer. BUT…before I scare you, here’s the low buck - no computer - redredredredredNECK fix. Drain the tranny. (remember my post about motorcraft filters, getcha sum, also for this job the Motorcraft Mercon SP…no if’s AND’s…Doctors orders) Pull the pan. Clean that muther out like you’re going to make a roast in it. Also have on hand 1 new motorcraft temp sensor. $15 maybe? BC3Z-7H141-A ok now it’s $13 that I googled that for you. Swap that out, replace the filter inside the pan, bolt it all up, filler up, and make yourself a sticker for the windshield so you do this all again in 30k miles. If this doesn’t do it, go see the transmission specialist. But from what I’ve seen, these transmissions hold up to 500hp so really built ford tough.
Remember, transmission flush, fill, filters = miracle cure for 9/10 trans problems. everyone loves to change motor oil, and forget trans, axles, fuel filters and coolant. The oil change sticker in my truck has all 4, not because I’m anal about it, just cause I’m forgetful, and I hate it when the truck “forgets” to work for me.

  1. Final thought…if I just scored this truck for 3g, depending on the athstetic condition paint etc, its probably worth 12-15g. For my peace of mind I’d do Air filter, Fuel filters (blue spring/banjo bolt upgrade), Oil and filters (i use John Deere JD3 15-40 because of all the additives they use for longevity in their motors. my truck LOVES it, and it’s always worth the half cocked look from the JD parts counter. Bobistheoilguy forum really gets this credit.) Transmission we covered, Coolant with good Motorcraft Gold, and I’d REALLY be heading to an EGR delete ASAP. It’s going to eliminate over half of your diagnostic issues. Sure it costs a few bucks, but worth-every-penny. Hell, I think Hewitt even has a hack where he shows you how to take a freeze plug from a old chevy or somthing, and go SUPER cheap. But we can go into detail on this later…
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here’s where it shows my being a Powerstroke ninny…

when a turbo kicks in, will there be a big spike in rpm? Had that happen two times when I pulled off the highway to get fuel…big jump in revs and loud whir but not sustained. I wonder if lack of turbo boost is why it is so gutless although the seller told me that a shop diagnosed #6 injector not firing.

ok, for diagnostic equipment. Have a regular ODB-II codereader and also a H&S XRT Pro tuner. What else do I need to pinpoint the causes of the issues? Otherwise, I plan to spend the next couple weeks or so going through this truck methodically to fix all these issues. I am convinced the head gaskets are fine and that the trans itself is not in need of being rebuilt so all that is needed should be peripheral and not internal. Everything else is good so I still believe this rig to be worth all the effort.

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Capt,

Check your email.

A spike in the RPM, is usually from the transmission “kicking down” into a lower gear. Climbing a hill, passing, etc. Since your trans is next on our hit parade, I’m going to defer too much geek speak on that right now.

When a turbo spools you’ll hear it, “whistle” up, then the RPMS will come up quickly, but if you were to “stay in” the throttle, the turbo would stay spooled up (whistling and making boost 20+psi on these trucks), and then the transmission would start shifting through gears.

OR when you’re towing or loaded for example, cruising down the interstate at 65, and some japcrap rice burner with a muffler worth more than the car is impeding your lane, you would “roll into” the turbo and keep the truck in the gear it’s in. The PSI would build, turbo would whistle dixie, and you’d blow out that loser’s driver side windows.

Check out this video and listen for the whistle. You can hear him spool up the turbo, (whistle) before he lays into the throttle. (This is a modified turbo and injector combo, but a great example of turbo spool, and how good these trucks sound.) IMO

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watched the vid and listened to the sound of the engine in it and not getting none of that! When stooling correctly, sounds like the mighty M54 but not as husky…

good to know I am on the right track and that it might be something right on top of that engine. DAMNED! They made the engine compartments in those 6.0 Strokers tight sunsabichez to get to anything in.

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[QUOTE=c.captain;143894]watched the vid and listened to the sound of the engine in it and not getting none of that! When stooling correctly, sounds like the mighty M54 but not as husky…

good to know I am on the right track and that it might be something right on top of that engine. DAMNED! They made the engine compartments in those 6.0 Strokers tight sunsabichez to get to anything in.[/QUOTE]
Like Benjammin said, if the RPMs are spiking, the only thing it can be is a slipping transmission. As far as shitty power, you really need need to pull the EGR and hope that’s the issue. If it’s the turbo, you’re taking your chances. Every time I work on exhaust (including turbos) I end up snapping a few studs. And those studs are usually in the most difficult place to get. Sometimes I get lucky on rebuild and I am able to deal with running a vehicle on a broken stud. Sometimes…
I’ve heard the actuators on those 6.0 turbos tend to go bad. I have no idea how to check for this and recommend getting an informed opinion before you just throw parts at it.

Good luck.

What kind of beer are you using on this project? It matters only that I wish to join you in solidarity out here in the east as you toil away on your new project.

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[QUOTE=TrainMan;143924]
What kind of beer are you using on this project? It matters only that I wish to join you in solidarity out here in the east as you toil away on your new project.[/QUOTE]

+1 from the Midwest. Luckily that cramped engine compartment came with the built in tool tray and beer holder. I’ve used a moving blanket and step stool and gotten comfy many times by laying down or sitting on the radiator. 6’1 190lbs. Or take the hood off and sit up on the wind screen. Depends on the project…

Different code points to VGT actuator. This code points to MAP, CAT, cooler charger hoses or that dirty EGR as stated above. (Gotta get rid of that thing) But…Anything is possible right?? Actuators are easy to bench test with a multi meter if it comes to it.

IMhumbleO, the turbos in these trucks get a bad rap from parts chuckers. Usually a clean up is all they need when they get gummed up. Definitely a chore…I feel, and hope, this lack of boost is a “6 pack project”. Pulling the turbo isn’t bad, but the first time finding the blind bolt on the back of it can be frustrating.

Good note on the exhaust studs too. PB blaster is my favorite…in gross amounts…often and early!

Trainman, you have a 6.0 too? Mods/miles? This makes me think I need a GCaptain window sticker…

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didn’t get any chance to start diagnosing my truck yesterday but did visually check the hose from the intake manifold to the MAP sensor and it appears fine but have yet to take it off and see if it is clear.

with a major marine swap meet coming this Saturday in Seattle, today is for loading up my trailer with junk (sorry…treasures) to sell and get some cash in hand. Should be getting going on troubleshooting the Ford in earnest this coming weekend. While I am at my shop today, will get some pics of the rig. It’s a good truck and I have much faith that it will be a “6 pack project” or maybe a half rack but not more than a case. OK, two cases tops! I drink alot of beer (Costco ale is my brew of choice these days…$18.49 by the case. Good beer for a bargain price…who could ask for anything more?)

gonna ask about the EGR delete. What is the big benefit in removing it? I know it is a popular mod to make but not sure the underlying reason. Better power or just one thing less to go bad?

anyway, bad news on the H&S XRT Pro tuner…turns out it was locked to the truck of the guy who pawned it so proved useless to doing anything with mine so with a $350 unlock charge from H&S, I decided to return it. What tuner do you gentlemen recommend I get or for the $160 the tuner cost, should I pay the unlock charge? Are they worth it? I can go back and rebuy that one from Cash America for likely less this time.

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Even tho I have a 6.7 I’m finding this thread quite interesting.

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good start on the MAP hose. I’ll email you some pics of the CAC (cooler air charger) connections that you can also check real easy.

Hmm…lots more info here. I’m trying to condense all these, but I see it getting long. I’m glad some of you are enjoying the read. I try to make it easy to understand, but like I said before, my brain jumps around so feel free to question. I was raised, that if you can’t explain something you’re teaching, you don’t actually know what you’re talking about. (BTW I have NO idea what I’m talking about…but I’m unemployed, bored, and waiting for the NMC to pull their heads out of their…ehem…file cabinets… hahaha)

At least you were able to pull the code with the H&S. Unfortunately, those retail new around $850. If I were going to suggest you buy a new tuner, I’d say spend $380 on a SCT flash unit…so…for $500 you can have the BBBAAADDD boy OR for $380 you can go SCT. There’s no practical difference. The H&S is just loaded with cool gauges and pretty shit to look at. I keep my SCT in my center console. Plug it in when I hook up a trailer for a tow tune, and plug it in for the street tune when I unhook the trailer. (only if it’s a big trailer) Once you flash in a little hotter program however it’s important to add at LEAST a pyrometer. I like the ISSPRO gauges that are color coded. That way when I let someone else drive the truck I tell them the accelerator is attatched to the needle, and the needle is attached to my foot. You push the accelerator, and the needle hits the red, my foot goes up your ass. Real simple…I’m a gauge whore, so I added a trans temp, and fuel pressure gauge too. Nice, but not necessary depending on what the truck is to be used for. I use mine to the limit of “do I need a class 8 for this…naw, fuck it I’ll tow it”.

EGR delete…first the disclaimer “Any EGR delete kit is used for offroad purposes only.” Now…I think you’re up in WA somewhere, and I’m not sure on your emissions. If they do a visual its’ one thing. If they hook up the sniffer machine it’s another thing. I’m going to give you the visual inspection run down.
Wiki Says: In internal combustion engines, exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) is a nitrogen oxide (NOx) emissions reduction technique used in petrol/gasoline and diesel engines. EGR works by recirculating a portion of an engine’s exhaust gas back to the engine cylinders.

First, why delete…well you’re right on two points. More power (fuel economy) and about a handful of things to not go bad. On these trucks, the exhaust manifold on the passenger side exits from the block, and is fed into an “up-pipe”. This pipe is one leg of a “Y”. For purpose of visual, an upside down Y. The Y is technically two pieces. Another up-pipe runs from the drivers side, up to, and JOINS to the back of the turbo. The passenger side joins in the fun just BEFORE the turbo. Why? Because the passenger side up-pipe has a “by-pass” in it. The bypass is essentially a scoop that directs some of the exhaust into the EGR cooler. “Wouldn’t this restrict exhaust flow to the turbo?” “Yes it does.”

The diverted exhaust gas passes through the EGR Cooler, which from the factory was a lousy design, prone to clogging. “Thats fucked up man…” “yes, yes it is brah” This cooler is designed to cool the exhaust gas and allow the gas to pass to the EGR valve. The Valve gets sooted up and sticks, usually leading to rough idle conditions and black smokyness. ANYWAY…

The EGR is cooled by engine coolant. First passing from the oil cooler. Another piss poor design…but now we’re getting somewhere…BECAUSE… The oil cooler can fail, causing oil to enter the coolant uh-oh the coolant no longer works as its’ supposed to allowing more heat to build up. Wait for it…the increase in heat, can cause the crappy EGR cooler to expand. Seams on the EGR fail, now water/coolant is entering the intake manifold. “Excuse me sir, but water doesn’t compress.” “That’s right young man, you’ve been paying attention.” So… this symptom early is white “smoke” aka steam exiting the exhaust. Later, when there is too much water in the cylider, the pressure causes the head to lift, stretching the head stud bolts, and BOOM…head gasket leak. “Whoa, heavy stuff.” “yup.” Now…let that leak go, and the steam will etch the block, and your motor is good for mooring small craft.

So…I DO reccomend taking the EGR delete path, and I will be happy to describe what paths are most appropriate depending first on your local inspections, second budget, third craftiness.

Tune in next time on Six-O’s with the Sick-O when we talk about hairy palms and girls that love them. Till then dear pirates, fair winds and calm seas…

      • Updated - - -

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I am enjoying this thread a lot guys. Thank you for all of the info. My 7.3 got wrecked - NOT MY FAULT - and i am having to decide between the proven 6.0L with the right mods, the temperamental 6.4L which a few friends of mine have had problems with, or a 6.7L. The big problem with a new truck is that $67,500 is a lot for a pickup truck that I use on weekends. Looking hard at the 6.0L and just as I am watching this thread evolve and talk to various other friends it is seeming like the route to go.

Overall people seem impressed with the 6.0 after they have Bulletproofed them. And bang for the buck, spending a lot less than $67K is appealing.

Good luck CC!!

Thanx Alex

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Muther of Jehovah! You can get a turner that works wirelessly from a smartphone!

Oh the toyz, toyz, toyz, TOYZ!