I finally got the ford 460 out and ready to install then found water in #3 cylinder. It looked pretty yellow … i only hope it’s rust!!! … engine won’t turn so i filled the bores with Diesel, and the intake manifold and the distributor drive. it’s been two days … MAYBE today it’ll work? but i was reading someone was pouring pepsi or coke in there … anyone tried that?
ps; #3 seems to hold air but i don’t know where the valve position is.
If it “holds air” the valves must be closed. That begs the question of where did the water come from?
Sure you did this, but compression check before and after removal? Timing chain ok, and valve inspection. Head gasket not leaking? Cam not worn? That 460 is a hoss, good luck!
neighbor had the engine… “ran when parked”. I trust it to be a good engine. I put air in #3 and didn’t detect anything coming out the Exh. manifold or into the crank case, only some ‘‘burbling’’ from the intake manifold (full of diesel) so figured the piston walls are intact, that’s about all i can deduce for now. The present difficulty is getting the torque converter off without being able to turn the engine but i should be able to ‘make’ a wrench … then i can put some serious torque on the crank. I’ve debated using a 3/4 impact on the crank nut but am rather hesitant !
Can you get to the flywheel ? 3/4 impact is an awesome tool. I use a Dewalt 1/4 impact while scavenging parts at my local Pick and Pull. Have some “older vehicles” I tinker with. Not 460’s though.
Take it apart and put it back together. Never trust “ran when parked” or “running take out”. If it was good running why park it or take it out.
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That may indicate an intake valve slightly open. That may be the entry path of the water you found in the cylinder.
It is curious that you are able to fill the intake manifold with diesel, it’s highly unlikely all the intake valves are closed.
well, my neighbor, a retired Marine whom i’ve known for 40 yrs. said it ran when parked and you can take that as fact. My father though installed a straight 8 in a 57 Chrysler and it rotated half a turn and stopped … it sat in the business all the time i was a kid. mom sold it along with a bunch of other classics for $200 each after he died.
I just want this to run for a year or two after which i’ll get a nice f-250 cab and put a built 350 in with a zf xmission on it for running a trailer around the NW to get project cars.
steamer; I used a 5 gallong GI can and poured that manifold full and quickly hit the air to it figuring to blow some diesel around where maybe it wouldn’t reach … the manifold didn’t stay full long most coming out the exhaust manifolds as the pistons were all ready full.
sea eagle: the nuts on the fwd. of the torque converter are pretty hard to reach, i’ll have to ‘modify’ one of my off sets to reach them since i can’t rotate the engine. I don’t have a air impact good enough to move it but i can borrow one but more than likely i will first bolt a couple grade 8’s onto the back of the flywheel and put a serious lever on it, if that doesn’t work, i’ll try a impact AND the lever … if that doesn’t work i’ll empty the cylinders and find some safe acid or some krap (pepsi?) to pour in there figuring it was anti freeze and not rust … (gawd I hope not)
i can even turn the engine upside down and
I don’t doubt the man’s word whether Marine, Army, or Peace Corp but things happen when engines are idle for periods of time. If you take it apart and put it back together you’ll have a beast that will last for many years.
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Tengineer1 is onto something. If the cylinders are full and most valves are working, you won’t be able to turn the motor. If you have the time and resources, dismantle it and inspect everything. I mostly worked with Chevy 350’s and a lot of Toyota engines. Steamer had a good point regarding valves perhaps. Break it down and do a good look see. I had problems with the GM coolant breaking down the head and manifold gasket materials and coolant leaking into the cylinders on my Suburban. It is well documented on GM’s site. New upper manifold gasket was cheap, but the labor(Me) was expensive. I know 460 is Ford, but another thing that I had was a puddle near the thermostat and a slight orange color in the oil due to the coolant. One or two of the sparkplugs also showed this problem. Did the repairs at 110,000 miles or so. Brother bought the Burb at 123k 5 years ago, still kicking towing 24’ Grady.
ok, found another 460, gave it the same treatment and it turns over so i am going to run with it. has 57K miles on it from a motor home but the engine has been sitting in the barn yard for 5 yrs. mostly exposed … $100 if it runs!
then my cousin gave me a motor home sitting in the rain forest around bremerton Wa. hasn’t run for 15 yrs. … why me?
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I haven’t seen it mentioned here so I will. One of the go-to’s in my neck of the woods is a product called Marvel Mystery Oil.
I agree with using diesel fuel as it is great for cylinder bores…but try some of this and let it sit a few days. Then try to rock the crank.
I always keep a quart of it around as I get neighbors calling for help as their lawn mowers locked up. (they never seem to check the oil) So I tilt the mower up, pull the spark plug, pour some in the bore, and wait a few hours and rock the blade some until it frees.
This is an old old product that mechanics seem to swear by.
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I had a 8hp engine that was locked up. Filled the cylinder with marvel and let it it sit for 24 hours. Put an impact gun on the crank and after a few seconds I was rewarded with a jet of marvel out of the spark plug hole. I ran that engine for another few years.
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LOL, poor Sherman…an ounce or less of the stuff would be about all ya need.
Great for engines…but not much for wearing apparel.
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yea, i buy this by the gallon but one has to fill the bore pretty full on a V engine to get it sitting on all the rings so hydraulic fluid would be cheaper, I just used diesel as I’m in a hurry and just wanted to know if it was frozen bad.
a better oil yet is Kroil but that costs even more … i keep a gallon of that here but use it more sparingly.
also; That may of been anti freeze in #3 bore and if that’s the case it’s pretty much welded to the block, i don’t know what breaks anti freeze rust … or what ever it does.
Would have been cheaper to fill it with Coca Cola:
Anything left in the bottle would taste good with Vodka.
On a more serious note, WD 40 (AKA Mechanic in a Tin) is one of the more efficient remedy to get “frozen” items un-frozen:
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yes, I’ve hear about coke’s ability to disolve rust … i have not tried it yet. as for wd40, i’ve always considered it silicon with a good carrier but i don’t use it… maybe window gaskets but my go to stuff is kroil or mmo …
i’d like to get some safeacid we always had aboard but i can’t seem to find it anyplace, anyone know how that’s spelled? safe acid or safacid or …?