I’m using the Ingersoll Rand ones and they seem to eat themselves up after a few months. I remember bosun McGroarty talking about using “clean diesel” to clean them up and soak parts, but these don’t seem to be able to last long enough to do that.
We have air dryers on the air system. We lubricate our needle guns with marvel air tool oil before each use. Not sure what a filter would be for an air hose? Air line lubricator?
No offense intended but what exactly stops working that causes them to become inoperable & unrepairable? When it was my job to do so I could bring some badly neglected needle guns back to life with a wire wheel, sand paper, Marvel Mystery Oil, elbow grease & patience. The internal parts are pretty strong & replacment parts can be reordered when they get worn down too much. It’s been a while since a deckhand or oiler came to me & said they couldn’t chip because the needle gun didn’t work but when they did I usually gave them a spill about sending the broken needle gun into the nearest elementary school & let a group of Cub Scouts repair it. I know some guys will use the old “needle gun broken” excuse to get out of the task of using it. I always thought repairing & maintaining the needle gun was the best part of using it.
Get an ultra high pressure washer to strip the paint off back to bare metal.
Never used one myself, but I know a guy that worked on an accommodation barge where there were various people sleeping 24 hours a day so they couldn’t use a needle guy as it would wake them up, their vessel was rusting to pieces so the company invested in a UHP washer as it is much quieter.
Cleco,with air line oil injector… And a repair/parts manual that is not too hard to understand if you don’t keep them lubed. Parts readily available.It ain’t rocket science.
My memory is not that great sometimes, sharp at a few moments. Do not remember Unitor brand. Cleco seems to be the brand supply dept sent us. Constant battle keeping those needle guns going. Another battle was keeping the guys from attacking themselves with the wire wheel feathering the edges before priming and painting. Myself included.
It takes off rusty scale really well, but surface rust you’ll need to use either wire wheel or something if you want to take it back to bare metal. I like to just take off as much rust as comes off easily, then treat with a rust converter. Then prime and paint.
Sounds about right how we approached it. Can’t remember what that blue shit rust converter was, but turned it black after chipping and wire wheel, and then we primed and painted.