So where do you all come down on this issue that is obviously stuck in the authors craw?
Come on my deckie brethren, you ever see this happen? Do you paint yours?
How about just provide a link to the document so we don’t have to jump through a bunch of hoops to look at it.
Marine Safety Forum – Safety Flash 14-29
Issued: 24th June 2014
Subject: Mooring Safety
Some time ago the writer was involved in investigating an incident where a seaman had damaged
his wrist during a mooring operation. Part of the root cause was identified as resulting from the
capstan drum end having been painted. This safety flash results from the fact that the last 8 ships
audited by the writer all had painted capstan or windlass drum ends and two masters have argued
that there is nothing wrong with the practice of painting them.
The problem associated with this practice is that the paint itself is the hazard. As the rope is surged
on the drum, it creates friction which melts the paint. As soon as the surging is stopped, the paint
solidifies and glues the rope to the drum. The rope will not surge and cannot be slacked until the
bond is broken, usually with a corresponding jump in the rope. This jump is easily capable of
breaking a wrist or worse.
As an auditor relying on competencies learnt dozens of years ago, it is difficult when another
Master does not agree with a finding and consequently it is necessary to look for supporting
documentation. In respect of this particular issue, the writer suggests an excellent publication that
may be found online published by “Seahealth” entitled “Mooring - Do it Safely”. This guide notes
that it has been prepared in close cooperation with the Danish Maritime Authority and the Danish
Shipowners’ Association”. With reference to this hazard; pages 31 and 32 respectively note:
“Drum parts that do not come in contact with the line can be painted, but the central
working part of the drum or capstan must be kept free of paint, rust or grease. Drum ends
should be smooth and coated with a thin layer of boiled linseed oil or other approved
synthetic liquid for protection”.
“Too many accidents have happened while using stoppers. The operation where you connect the
stopper to the line should be done very quickly since the whole tension is transferred to the stopper
and things can quickly go wrong if too many snags arise. If too many turns have been made on the
drum or the line has burnt itself into paint, this can lead to delay and cause the stopper to part and
an accident happen”.
No and was taught not to 20 years ago. I have seen them painted with a line bonded to them but have never dealt with an incident as a result of this.
I’ve never painted one because on a working ship it’s a waste of time. First use and the paint is mostly, if not completely, gone. Can’t say that I’ve ever seen paint seize up a line. The capstans and windlass’ that I have seen painted were rarely used, so were painted for preservation as well as appearance. If the individual hurt his wrist working the line, either taking in or surging, they are doing it wrong. You should never have such a tight grip and strain on the line. Let it and the equipment do the work.
I’ve put amerilok clear two part epoxy on them. Hard as a rock. No melted paint . Line slips nice. Great stuff.
[QUOTE=Texaco;142669]I’ve never painted one because on a working ship it’s a waste of time. First use and the paint is mostly, if not completely, gone. Can’t say that I’ve ever seen paint seize up a line. The capstans and windlass’ that I have seen painted were rarely used, so were painted for preservation as well as appearance. If the individual hurt his wrist working the line, either taking in or surging, they are doing it wrong. You should never have such a tight grip and strain on the line. Let it and the equipment do the work.[/QUOTE]
I couldn’t agree more with this. On the lakes we make a dock about every other day and then slide the wall during loading so much that any paint on the capstans would be a distant memory before the week is even done.
I think painted capstans are purely for museum ships because such a sight will be entertainment for the mariner and non-mariner alike.
[QUOTE=z-drive;142655]Marine Safety Forum – Safety Flash 14-29
Issued: 24th June 2014
Subject: Mooring Safety
Some time ago the writer was involved in investigating an incident where a seaman had damaged
his wrist during a mooring operation. Part of the root cause was identified as resulting from the
capstan drum end having been painted. This safety flash results from the fact that the last 8 ships
audited by the writer all had painted capstan or windlass drum ends and two masters have argued
that there is nothing wrong with the practice of painting them.
The problem associated with this practice is that the paint itself is the hazard. As the rope is surged
on the drum, it creates friction which melts the paint. As soon as the surging is stopped, the paint
solidifies and glues the rope to the drum. The rope will not surge and cannot be slacked until the
bond is broken, usually with a corresponding jump in the rope. This jump is easily capable of
breaking a wrist or worse.
.[/QUOTE]
Some paints soften when heated but paint cooling and then adhering strongly to both the drum and the line? I am skeptical that paints used aboard ship would behave that way.
More likely the cause of the sticking to the drum is the melting of the line itself. Some types of synthetic lines will overheat and fuse to drums, bitts etc. Lines that have had hard usage will show evidence of this type of damage.
I would agree this is a more likely culprit. I was once heavily chastised for nearly ruining a large section of a new line while making up to a ship two part and using the capstan to pull the line back.
[QUOTE=Traitor Yankee;142801]I would agree this is a more likely culprit. I was once heavily chastised for nearly ruining a large section of a new line while making up to a ship two part and using the capstan to pull the line back.[/QUOTE]
In some ports the tugs make up using ship’s lines. If the mooring / un-mooring operation is particularly energetic almost every turn of the line will be fused to the bitts when it’s time to recover the line. Some paint might get scrapped off but melting and then solidifying? I’ve never seen evidence of that happening.
I’d have to agree. We use the term “glazed” I think. And it can happen to high tech spectra lines as well.
I don’t buy the paint melting story but I agree that there is no reason to paint a drum that’s being used enough to stay clean. But if the drum has good paint on it no reason to remove it.