[QUOTE=c.captain;109805]YEE! Them’s pricey generator sets…I need to stay under $4k and hopefully less than $3k total. Mind I also need a tender, a radar, a SSB and who knows what else?
I have not yet begun to shop![/QUOTE]
What part of 12.5 kW, DD 2-71 for $4295 did you not see? If you get $300 credit for your old genny, you’re under your $4k budget…
Here’s your marine SSB:
and here’s the best RADAR set for the money on eBay:
if a 6’ array is too much for you and you just want to avoid bumping into things out on the water, this would be fine for a couple hundred bucks:
Now go to your local Craigslist site and search for a tender.
Man, where would you old Captains be without us effin young punks to do all your legwork?
Here’s your marine SSB:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/FURUNO-MARIN…item4ac4a6f8aa
and here’s the best RADAR set for the money on eBay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/COMPLETE-Sim…cd0c7b&vxp=mtr
if a 6’ array is too much and you just want to avoid bumping into things out on the water, this would be fine for a couple hundred bucks:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ratheon-R20-…90cbe1&vxp=mtr
Now go to your local Craigslist site and search for a tender.
Man, where would you old Captains be without us effin young punks to do all your legwork?
[QUOTE=Jetryder223;109844]Man, where would you old Captains be without us effin young punks to do all your legwork?[/QUOTE]
I can see that eBay will be a great resource for me as well as Craigslist and local boater’s swapmeets.
Being a boat owner again is going to be a blast…I had been looking at buying another boat seriously for the past six months but the right one just didn’t jump out at me…with this one I know am really ready and she is the right one. Now I just need my Lucy!
Good luck with your new boat. It sounds like you got her at a good price, but she is definitely a “fixer up-er”.
[QUOTE=Uniblab;109855]Good luck with your new boat. It sounds like you got her at a good price, but she is definitely a “fixer up-er”.[/QUOTE]
Thanks for the kind words sir…I know I got a project but she is a salty little ship and well worth the effort to put her to rights. I am really looking forward to getting her back to sea.
I’m a Cetol fan too.
You might give some serious thought to heading to Port Townsend for your haul out. I think prices are higher in Seattle and there is a great concentration of skilled shipwrights up there. If you do want to haul in Seattle PM me and I’ll feed you the names of a couple of folks that were instrumental in maintaining the Rohmsdahl Trawler that was in my family for a few years.
Whatever you do I think you should keep crowdsourcing here and post more photos.
[QUOTE=renoun;109861]I’m a Cetol fan too.
You might give some serious thought to heading to Port Townsend for your haul out. I think prices are higher in Seattle and there is a great concentration of skilled shipwrights up there. If you do want to haul in Seattle PM me and I’ll feed you the names of a couple of folks that were instrumental in maintaining the Rohmsdahl Trawler that was in my family for a few years.
Whatever you do I think you should keep crowdsourcing here and post more photos.[/QUOTE]
Port Townsend does have skilled shipwrights, probably more there than anywhere else. Then you have Danny Farsovich in Seattle, Lovric’s Sea Craft in Anacortes, and several great ones in Vancouver, B.C. Check with ARTHUR in Canada for that. I had work done in Canada in 2004, the great “can do” positive feel I got there satisfied my expectations fully. Wherever a special job was required, they were very forthcoming in supplying contact numbers for bids on that job. And most of the bids came from a father/son team up there. In 04 the exchange rate was better than now, but looking into B.C. is a good idea too.
[QUOTE=seacomber;109863]Port Townsend does have skilled shipwrights, probably more there than anywhere else. Then you have Danny Farsovich in Seattle, Lovric’s Sea Craft in Anacortes, and several great ones in Vancouver, B.C. Check with ARTHUR in Canada for that. I had work done in Canada in 2004, the great “can do” positive feel I got there satisfied my expectations fully. Wherever a special job was required, they were very forthcoming in supplying contact numbers for bids on that job. And most of the bids came from a father/son team up there. In 04 the exchange rate was better than now, but looking into B.C. is a good idea too.[/QUOTE]
My plan is to put her on the hard in LaConner or Anacortes which is close to my home in Mt Vernon and then do as much of the work myself as I can. My sincere hope is that the work required to the transom is not major and I can do all that myself including the caulking needed. Dealing with the rusty bolts in the lazarette will only be a bitch to drive the old ones out if they are all swollen but that’s what they make drifts and hand sledges for. The mildew will be killed and then the wood sealed and the couple of punky spots above decks in the cockpit can all be dug out and sealed with epoxy resin. Hopefully three days to do all of this and then attend to the hull paint both above and below the waterline and install the new gen when she’s on the blocks. With my needing to work in the GoM, I expect the boat to be on the beach for at least two and maybe three months.
Going down to Seattle tomorrow to sign for the boat and have the gal from NOAA show me all the systems. Hopefully, she will move to Fisherman’s Terminal on Tuesday and might stay there till I return in June from a job or maybe run her up to LaConner next weekend and go straight out of the water.
[QUOTE=c.captain;109868]My plan is to do as much of the work myself as I can. My sincere hope is that the work required to the transom is not major and I can do all that myself including the caulking needed. Dealing with the rusty bolts in the lazarette will only be a bitch to drive the old ones out if they are all swollen but that’s what they make drifts and hand sledges for. The mildew will be killed and then the wood sealed and the couple of punky spots above decks in the cockpit can all be dug out and sealed with epoxy resin. [I][U][B] Hopefully three days to do all of this [/B][/U][/I].[/QUOTE]
Ah C.Captain.
You ARE an optimist.
So S Capt. Is the deck & transom marine ply or planking? If planked, what species of wood?
Recommend you pressure wash the goo from the bilge then using the brightest light you can find, inspect each rib for cracks. If you find any let us know. I have some fairly painless fixes that will make the rib stonger than original.
Regarding caulking, you’ll need to be smart as to which caulk to use. 3M 4200 is probably best for bedding and general purpose use. In applications where you want the absolute strongest, watertight bond, 3M 5200 is the beast …er best. Be warned, after 5200 has set it ain’t coming apart without a fight.
[QUOTE=Jetryder223;109876]
Regarding caulking, you’ll need to be smart as to which caulk to use.[/QUOTE]
I’ve heard that Dap has some products for window glazing that can be re-purposed for marine use at great savings. In all seriousness this vessel is probably more likely to use Dolphinite than 4000UV, 4200, or 5200.
[QUOTE=Jetryder223;109875]Ah C.Captain.
You ARE an optimist.[/QUOTE]
You are right sir…I am a dreamer living in a fantasy world with this one. Mind you tho that I did not speak of sistering any frames, just kill mold and treat the wood and replace rusted bolts. I know there are a few cracked ones but if they ain’t cracked all the way through then I consider them a do in the future job and yes Jet, I want to know about these fixes you speak of. I think the biggest bitch will be the bolts that have to be driven out if there is no room to swing a hammer and I don’t expect there to be much.
Since you know more than I, you check out the full hull survey here. Almost everything called out is it the lazarette area which apparently went years without proper ventilation. I intend to install a proper power air supply in and a natural exhaust out of the space to not let this continue on unabated.
btw, you asked for more photos and I just found this one of her at the dock in better res
For those wanting to know why we posted only 2 articles to the blog all weekend… it’s because c.capt’s got us all checking out the GSA auctions site.
Now I only wish I had founded Facebook, instead of gCaptain… then I could buy myself this:
http://gsaauctions.gov/gsaauctions/aucalsrh/
the link isn’t bringing up anything John…is there a PT boat up for bid?
Thanks for sharing the survey. The good news - overall, not too bad and there’s nothing a DIYer can’t handle. The bad news - ain’t no way this is a 3 day project.
I would plan the work as such:
Get a 2500-3000 psi pressure washer and thououghly clean the exterior, lazerette, and the bilge. Try to knock off as much mold as possible with the washer. Hit the rusted bolts with pressure water too.
Take a hammer and give a number of rusty bolts a whack. Do they look strong or crumble like a piece of sandstone? If solid, leave them alone. If weak, we’ll discuss later.
Rent or buy an airless paint sprayer. Go to a paint store and ask for Fiberlock IAQ organic Cleaner. It’s an 8% hydrogen peroxide solution with wetting agent. Apply to the entire bilge area. Fire from point blank range where there is heavy mold/mildew and it will shear off. Allow to react and dry (at least 2 days).
Pull the boat and allow it to dry for 3 weeks. Inside storage preferred but that can be pricey.
Any ribs that need attention, do that now. You can sister them in the normal fashion or cut out the break with a sawzall, fill the void with Fiberglass & epoxy resin and sister THAT for an uber repair. If the void to be filled is large use a small scrap of wood as filler, wrap that in glass and saturate with resin.
Remember those crumbly bolts? Get a compressor and and air chisel and shear off the ends. Replace the chisel with an air punch and the bolts should pop out without much trouble. Replace the fasteners with bronze or SS. Coat with marine anti-sieze and you’ll never curse them again.
The mold should be gone now. Inspect for any significant wasting. If found, treat with CPES or other epoxy sealer (Not Git-Rot). Now go back to the paint store and buy a gallon bucket of Fosters, Fiberlock or PermaWhite antimicrobial sealcoat. These come in White, Black or Clear. I recommend white. Cover anything you do not want overspray on with plastic sheeting, then pull out your airless sprayer and coat the entire bilge. You will not need forced air ventilation after this.
The soft marine ply area - caulk them if you’d like to for now. Save that project for next year.
Damned glad to have you on my team Jet & many thanks for all the fine tips…
Louie…I think this is the beginning of a beautiful friendship!
[QUOTE=c.captain;109883]the link isn’t bringing up anything John…is there a PT boat up for bid?[/QUOTE]
Paste the link to the browser then backspace/erase to the end of “.gov”. It will work.
[QUOTE=Jetryder223;109886]Paste the link to the browser then backspace/erase to the end of “.gov”. It will work.[/QUOTE]
yeah, but we still don’t know what boat John is hot for!
My guess is the Delaware II, it’s cool looking. They have a lot of cool toys on there, to bad most of them are to far away from me!
