There’s an eternal war between sea and ship(steel), we are the war soldiers to keep the ship as new as she once was. Hull & machineries whatever.
There are many different names on the market.
Been used the Corroseal, is there any other name that works better than that?
Please advise if you have hands-on experience.
Don’t give me the phosporic acid stuff, though…
The brand name escapes me right now, but there is another product on the market very similar to Corroseal and it works about the same. I have used both products with mixed success. Never had much luck with rust converters down here (Gulf Coast), but I used the hell out of them in Alaska and it always worked like a charm!
In the gulf, I prefer Ospho or a similar product. Up north I’ll take a converter over a corrosive any day!
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We have been using Enrust since I have been with the company and it seems to work the same as Corroseal. Give it a shot.
have used this product… seems to work…must strictly adhere to the directions in order to get the desired result…no “rushing” the drying time…India product…DNV “certified”…there are other “versions” out there!!
http://www.gloprotek.com/Glo-Protek-Rust-Converter-Primer.asp
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Needle gun, wire brush, sandblasting, priming and painting have always worked for me. Rust should be removed, not covered over or ‘converted’, you’ve got to cut out the cancer. The chemical stuff is OK for nonstructural steel I guess but there isn’t a whole lot of nonstructural steel on a ship.
Tengineer
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[QUOTE=Capt. Robert;29882]Very Toxic Vapors. Use a Dusk mask to prevent inhalation. [/QUOTE]
Dude, really? Dust mask? For sulfuric acid?
OK, everybody that wants to live to see tomorrow, read this, then use a full face air purifying respirator with an N100 cartridge.
And hey, what the hell, why not use chemical resistant gloves, too?
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I am a big fan of Pettit Rustlok primer
dont use it,the best thing is get it down to bare steel, primer, then use a 2 part paint, the rest is a waiste of time
Thats the best way to convert rust! Well put 
I have shipped with some proponents of corroseal, and I always felt their outlook on most things in life was ‘how can i do this easier, faster with less effort’ But after six months, the corroseal has lifted, and rust is building again. Then you get to do it again! And again! It’s too bad some companies will put their vessels in shipyard, but cheap out on a regular sandblasting, when a little preventative medicine will stop the rust and deterioration and let the crew keep up with the between shipyard time.
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Best use I’ve seen was take it down to bare steel, allow a sheen of rust to form, Corroseal, prime and 2-part epoxy.
Corroseal turns rust into magnetite, a non-rustable material.
Be sure to follow the directions…the most common mistake is putting it in a coffee can for use, the metal from the can changes the properties of the Corroseal, use a plastic can/bucket.
I’ve found Ospho to be junk. They don’t recommend using it with epoxy paint.
Turns rust into iron phosphate, which rusts.
Try a 3-way, side by side comparison. We did, and we’re converted.
Magnetite, a type of iron oxide also known as Lodestone, is the strongest naturally occuring magnetic substance in nature. I guess using it around a magnetic compass aint a good idea.
The problem that I have seen on most vessels that I work on is there is no time to do it properly (no matter what you use), but there is plenty of time to do it over again in a short time frame. Some of these “Masters/Captains” just don’t want to let the deck crew perform proper surface preparation. They want to chip/grind, enrust(converter), prime, and paint in less then a 12 hour period. And they wonder why their paint cost is up and rust keeps coming back. This has been a sore subject with me since I was a deck hand and even still as a captain. I feel proper surface prep is the key and will save money as well as time to address other “problem” areas on the vessel.
Teng - Yes, I agree you have to “cut the cancer out”. Unfortunately, I have seen many just adress the little spot and not work it out to “good” steel.
Fran - You have really hit the nail on the head with the respiratory protection. The powers to be jump all over hard hats, safety glasses, steel toe shoes, fall protection (as inadequate as it is - if you don’t have a place overhead to secure to), but I have seen very few whom are concerned with respiratory protection.
Will keep that(enrust) in mind… Corroseal is about 50 dollars per gallon, How much is enrust?
[QUOTE=seadog!;30122]
Be sure to follow the directions…the most common mistake is putting it in a coffee can for use, the metal from the can changes the properties of the Corroseal, use a plastic can/bucket.
[/QUOTE]
Very good point, seadog. I never thought of anything other than coffee can from the galley…thanks a million…
[QUOTE=Capt Brian;30144]The problem that I have seen on most vessels that I work on is there is no time to do it properly (no matter what you use), but there is plenty of time to do it over again in a short time frame. Some of these “Masters/Captains” just don’t want to let the deck crew perform proper surface preparation. They want to chip/grind, enrust(converter), prime, and paint in less then a 12 hour period. And they wonder why their paint cost is up and rust keeps coming back. This has been a sore subject with me since I was a deck hand and even still as a captain. I feel proper surface prep is the key and will save money as well as time to address other “problem” areas on the vessel.[/QUOTE]
I was sure this was the only way it was done. I cannot recall any point that we were allowed to do the job properly. It all pays the same to me but a little pride in your work would sure make it more rewarding after the job is done. AB’s and OS’s are the original rust converters!
During the 'tween war years, 1918-1941, the US Navy was very spit and polish.
If it moved- salute it, if it stood still- paint it.
At the outbreak of WWII the layers of paint had built up to amazing depths.
Add a little fire and the casualties from the toxic fumes were staggering.
Lesson learned, and quickly implemented, was no more than 3 layers of top coat and then back down to bare steel.
Seems like a real good practice.