Corroseal Rust Convertor


#1

I am looking for a alternate or comparable product to Corroseal Rust Convertor. We have always used Corroseal and have gotten great results. Problem is. It’s not available in Puerto Rico and would take a act of congress to get it shipped down here. Anyone know of anything comparable?

Application: steel with minimal surface rust


#2

Try Enrust. We use it and it works pretty good!


#3

I’ll contact my local vendor and see if it’s available. I appreciate it. Thanks


#4

Muratic Acid, then some ameron zinc primer works well for us.


#5

Does it matter what type of finish cost you apply to the Ameron zinc primer?


#6

We use a 335 primer on top of the zinc. It comes in red, black, off-white. Then Amershield top coat. So basically all ameron products. You could also use ospho instead of corroseal but I don’t think it works as well.


#7

Ospho then Pettit Rustlok … both should be readily available at a local chandlery


#8

Take the time to remove the rust all together, 99% of marine coatings are not fully compatible with rust coatings. Since your dealing with light surface rust use a wire wheel / needle gun to remove the rust. Rust sealers generally don’t offer any protection to non rusty areas, they are there to convert the rust, nothing more, nothing less.

Paints are unable to properly adhere to steel if there is a rust product applied. This is one of the causes of peeling paint and rust bleed. The paint has to be able to cheimiclly bond to the surface it applies to in order to be effective.

The time spent to remove the rust and properly recondition is worth it because you won’t have to go back 6 months later and repair the area all over again. Our repairs generally last 2-3 years on my ship. We use two coats of Devoe “Bar Rust” 235 primer followed by one top coat of Devoe Devthane 379 for a top coat. Devoe can match any color your dealing with and is available in San Juan.

QUOTE=tugboatchief;73557]I am looking for a alternate or comparable product to Corroseal Rust Convertor. We have always used Corroseal and have gotten great results. Problem is. It’s not available in Puerto Rico and would take a act of congress to get it shipped down here. Anyone know of anything comparable?

Application: steel with minimal surface rust[/QUOTE]


#9

[/QUOTE]

That’s exactly what I’m dealing with. Rust bleeding. Two or three to trips to the offshore dump and she’s bleeding rust all over the place. I appreciate your help. I appreciate all of the help I received on this thread. The knowledge gained will not go to waste.

Tarpon Springs… My old stomping grounds!! Hey Ray


#10

Thoroughly getting rid of the rust is the key. Then prime and topcoat.

I have used Corroseal before. I am not a fan of it. I have found that the amount of time I have spent doing the recommended corroseal prep work, again and again, and again, would have been better spent doing a more thorough job of prep work, and just doing it once.

A properly prepared surface will last two years ( yeah I know how much work it entails!). So why use corroseal to have it last two years? Do it right and just keep up with the spots.

I do use OSPHO. Mixed results, but it is cheap and easy to use. BUT, you have to chip/wire wheel first. You are using needle guns and wire wheels right? Not just chipping hammers, peening over the rust, making nice small holes to start percolating rust bubbles from?

Have you had the deck / house professionally sandblasted recently? Ever? Although this is just my opinion here, I feel that the companies that are too cheap to do the occasional (3 to 5 years) total surface prep in shipyard are penny foolish, steel pound replacing over time. BUT, trying to beg the management to spend the $$ is tough. “Aw, just let the crew do it, it’s cheaper” Yeah, but then you need to crop and replace…


#11

The super structure and the hull were sandblasted in the shipyard in 2009. Yes we are using needle guns and 4" grinders with the heavy duty wire wheels. I believe my problem from the get go is the corroseal applied before the primer. I’ve given up on the ospho years ago due to poor results. We use Muratic acid when applicable to clean up the rust stains.

We have always used a two part epoxy paint and primer. But have never gotten two years out of the paint job and that’s even doing creek work. Now that we are offshore 4 to 5 times daily the last paint job only lasted 8 months.

Now I just have to find a reasonably priced primer and paint that’s available in Puerto Rico. The PPG paint here is 150 a gallon versus the same paint(different manufacture) in NY is 50 a gallon and covers much better.

I will say I do not mind spending the money to get the right stuff. And doing the work is not a problem. The whole crew spent 6 hrs yesterday prepping and that includes management.

I was told years ago that a paint job is only as good as a prep job.


#12

Curious: what is failing? The prepared area or the edges of the area flake up and allow water intrusion? Or is the paint not adhering to the bottom layer?


#13

The welded seams, joints, brackets(fire ax and fire hose holders) welded to steel plating on house. Fuel vent support brackets, bulwark vertical support beams. The paint seems to bond but the rust protrudes from underneath and blisters.


#14

That doesn’t seem like coroseal failing but incomplete prep. No offense, those places are damn near impossible to prep without taking a grinder to every pit until the steel shines. No one ever goes that far…


#15

I believe you are absolutely correct. It never showed before due to the fact we always did creek work. Now that we are offshore four to five times a day it’s starting to show and it didnt take long.


#16

Those places are also the hardest to coat thoroughly. If you think your prep is good then be extra careful to get 100% coverage. No holes of any kind…


#17

I’m gonna have to figure out some type of tool or device to get in behind the corners to prep properly. The boat won’t be sandblasted again for a few years.

We took a deck crawler to the whole deck in sept and then applied corroseal and primer then paint. What we have now is rust bleeding thru the paint. The primer and paint must not have bonded to the corroseal.


#18

Although I am just an armchair quarterback here, it would appear that your issues are coming from the welds, and all the pock marks that are prevalent in welds. clean up the welds, grind off the bumps and high lows. Clean up the seams. Sounds pretty dumb, But I have seen some pretty crappy “ABS” certified welds that look worse than my own bird spatter beads.

Of course you have to show the deckhands what is acceptable when grinding on the welds. They can’t remove the fillet which is needed, but the excess bumps and spatter which are hiding the rust.

all in all, I would agree this is prep work not being done completely. Was this area you mentioned, worked on last shipyard period? That may be an issue with poor slag removal between beads of weld.


#19

No. The welding in question was done in 09. Also the sand blasting was done during the same time. I bought the boat in 2010. What has me concerned the most Is the rust bleeding up through the paint on the deck. After using a deck crawler, needle gun and wire wheel before applying corroseal, primer and a two part epoxy paint with the non skid. The rust just bleeds through and if not dealt with it blisters and spreads.


#20

The nonskid may be the source of water intrusion beneath the paint. Especially if it’s garnet. That stuff seems to punch through to the deck metal.
Diluted ospho works well to remove the bleed marks. But it needs to be rinsed off or it will etch the paint.